To shape the headrest I made three jigs. The first two jigs to shape the inner and outer curves using a router. The second to final cut the headrest to length. I won't cut the headrest to final length until almost the last step.
I will use the bandsaw to remove some of the waste prior to the router setup. If you don't have a bandsaw don't worry as the router will work without but the bandsaw saves some router passes.
Cut the added glue strips off flush with the top and bottom. Mark the curve on the top. Both the inner and outer curves. The headrest thickness should be about 1 1/4" thick. I now rough cut the curves with the bandsaw. I try to leave the lines on as the router operation will get the final shape to within sanding size. The bandsaw just gets the basic curve so the headrest will sit in the jig evenly. If you get it to within 1/8" of your line that is good enough. This maybe the perfect time to get that bandsaw you've been wanting if you don't have one. Your spouse should understand unless you already made other promises. In that case, it's chisel time. I have a 14" powermatic with a riser block. I use a 1/4", 6 tooth blade. Again, go slow but steady. If you find the blade drifting backup and re-enter. I sometimes forget to change the blade for cutting the curves, get started and wonder why I can't follow the line or smell smoke. Smoke in a woodshop is not good. The correct blade makes a big difference. Years ago, I had a woodshop in my garage while living in SE Wisc. I made a woodstove out of a 55 gal and a 30 gal drum. The 30 gal was stacked over the 50gal. This allowed more heat to escape into the room before heading out thru the chimney. I would sometimes forget about the dust on the barrels and start smelling smoke when the fire was going and panic. Eventually I learned to clean the outside of the stove before starting the fire. Makes me glad I'm now living in CA. I have a pic of that ole stove somewhere. It was ugly but it sure was cheap to make and it worked very well. My friends and I would play poker around that stove in the winter.
The first router jig for the headrest is the outer shape. This jig allows the router to follow and correct shape of the curve. I lower the router to take about 1/8" at a time until I reach the mark. Make sure your jig is secure to your work table or bench. Go slow. I use a 1/2" up spiral bit.
The pc that I added to the router base plate was to take up some of the depth of the bit. I didn't want to buy another bit for this at the time. It was from scrape so I ain't pretty but then again most of my jigs are ugly but they work. I seen some jigs that are nicer than the project they are ment for. If it's your first jig, then make it work first and then remake it pretty if you get the time.
The picture shows the routing when complete and after lowering the bit 3-4 times. I take time when assembling the headrest pcs and cutting the stock to 7 1/2" high. My jig will accomadate the 7 1/2". You can make the jig adjustable to different headrest heights. I found this to be a good height. The 1/4" all thread you see locks the material in. I have wing nuts on the ends so I can hand tighten. The outside forms of the jig need to be carefully cut. I run the router back and forth length wise and make multiple passes. Then on to the next jig which routes the inner curve. It's basically the same jig only the reverse.
I set up a high tech dust collection system for this operation. (cardboard, elect conduit and canvas) I works and keeps the chips all in one area. I now have a rough headrest made of four pieces ready for sanding. This is when I wish I had a 36" drum sander. Wonder if they make such a beast. I guess if you have kids and want to keep them out of trouble you could make a 36" barrel, glue sand paper to it, attach a crank and axle and make them stand there and crank while you hold the headrest to it. Now there's an idea waiting to happen.
